The Importance of Colour Theory in Permanent Makeup: A Scientific Perspective
Permanent makeup is a blend of art and science, and one of the most crucial elements is colour theory. For results that age beautifully and stay true to their intended colour, your artist must deeply understand how pigments interact with skin tones, undertones, and biological processes. Let’s explore the science behind it and why it’s critical for achieving lasting, natural-looking results.
The Role of Colour Theory in Permanent Makeup
At its core, colour theory in permanent makeup involves understanding how different pigment colours interact with the skin’s undertones. The human skin has varying levels of melanin, haemoglobin, and collagen, which can alter how pigments appear once healed. For example:
Cool undertones can make pigments with too much red appear purplish or pink.
Warm undertones might cause cooler pigments to heal with an orange or red cast.
Without the right balance, pigments can heal unevenly or drift over time, leading to undesired results like blue, grey, or orange hues.
Pigment Placement and Depth: The Science of Skin Layers
The depth at which pigment is implanted is another key factor. The skin is composed of three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis, and the subcutaneous tissue. For permanent makeup, pigments should be implanted in the upper dermal layer, the sweet spot where they can remain stable without migrating or fading prematurely.
Too shallow: Pigment placed in the epidermis may shed during the skin’s natural renewal process, leading to patchy or faded results.
Too deep: Implanting pigment too deeply can cause it to blend with the dermis's blood supply. The deeper it is the more layers of skin the pigment has to get through to show up creating a filterered effect, this often leads to the dreaded "blue-grey" effect, particularly if carbon-based black pigments are used.
Just Right: The sweet spot, this will heal more true to colour and fade evenly overtime. Knowing where this is as an artist will vary for each client and that is where experience will come in.
The Chemistry of Pigments: Avoiding Blue-Grey Healing
Understanding pigment composition is vital for achieving stable, long-term results. Many permanent makeup pigments are made from a blend of organic and inorganic compounds, including iron oxides and carbon black. While carbon black is popular for its intensity, it is highly prone to healing blue or grey if implanted too deeply.
Artists must:
Choose high-quality pigments designed for stability.
Avoid overuse of carbon black or offset it with warmer tones to balance cooler undertones.
Adjust techniques based on skin type and undertone, ensuring proper placement.
Other Factors Affecting Healed Results
Several additional factors can influence how pigments heal over time, including:
Skin health: Dry, oily, or damaged skin can affect how pigment is absorbed and retained.
Ageing: As the skin ages, collagen levels decrease, which can impact pigment longevity and appearance.
Lifestyle: Sun exposure, skincare routines, and even medications can alter pigment stability.
Why Expertise Matters
An experienced artist combines their knowledge of colour theory, pigment chemistry, and skin biology to deliver tailored results. They take the time to analyse your skin type, choose pigments that suit your undertones, and apply precise techniques to achieve optimal depth and colour retention.
Final Thoughts
Permanent makeup is more than just a treatment; it’s a carefully calculated procedure that requires a deep understanding of both art and science. Ensuring your artist has advanced knowledge of colour theory, pigment chemistry, and skin physiology is essential for achieving stunning, long-lasting results.
When choosing a permanent makeup artist, don’t hesitate to ask about their training and approach to colour theory. The investment in a skilled professional will ensure your healed results remain true to your vision for years to come.